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Hey everyone, I’ve run into a strange issue with my multi-monitor setup and could use some help figuring out whether this is a monitor or GPU-related problem.
I’m using a system with 4 monitors connected via DisplayPort (DP #1 through DP #4). Here’s what’s happening:
Monitor 1 (primary, connected to DP #1) stopped showing video. It only displays the manufacturer’s logo at startup, then goes black.
I tested Monitor 1 by connecting it to DP #2, #3, and #4 — still no video.
Plugged Monitor 2 into DP #1 — video works fine.
This led me to believe Monitor 1 was faulty, so I ordered a replacement.
However, things got weirder today:
I also have a small 7-inch display connected to DP #4. When both the 7-inch monitor and the replacement monitor are connected, neither shows video.
If I disconnect the 7-inch monitor from DP #4, video comes back on the main display (DP #1).
If I unplug the main monitor and plug the 7-inch into DP #1, video works on the 7-inch.
This behavior seems inconsistent. Could it be a GPU issue, some DisplayPort bandwidth or power limitation, or are the monitors at fault?
The latest update for all Windows lover is that — Microsoft is finally doing something about the slow and sluggish performance some of us have been noticing. They’ve rolled out a new test version where, if you report your PC feeling slow, it’ll automatically collect performance data and send it to them. This should help them figure out what’s going wrong more quickly.
They’ve already made some improvements last year — like speeding up the taskbar and reducing delays from startup apps — but more changes are coming in the 25H2 update later this year. They’re also tightening rules for driver developers to avoid future performance issues. Fingers crossed things get smoother soon!
To reinstall Windows 10, first download the Media Creation Tool from Microsoft’s official website using another computer. Use it to create a bootable USB drive with the Windows 10 setup files.
Plug the USB into your PC and restart it. Enter the BIOS and set the USB drive as the first boot device. Once the Windows setup loads, choose “Custom: Install Windows only.” Delete the existing partitions on your main drive if you’re doing a clean installation, then proceed with the install.
After installation, go through the basic setup steps like language, account name, and privacy settings. If Windows 10 was previously activated on your PC, it will automatically activate again once online.
When you’re on the desktop, connect to the internet and let Windows install updates and drivers. For best results, install drivers manually from your PC manufacturer’s website if needed.
You can remove the login password in Windows 11, but it depends on your account type.
If you’re using a local account, you can take out the password completely. Open the Run dialog (Win + R), type netplwiz, and press Enter. Uncheck the box that says users must enter a username and password, then confirm your password when prompted. The system will then log in automatically.
For Microsoft accounts, Windows doesn’t allow full password removal. You’ll need to switch to a local account first if you want to remove the password. You can also set up automatic login or use a PIN or fingerprint for quicker access.
Removing the login password can make things faster, but it also lowers security. Use this only on personal or secured systems.
Ransomware can hit NAS devices just like regular computers. If your NAS is online and not properly secured, it’s an easy target.
Start by disabling remote access if it’s not needed. Keep your NAS firmware and apps updated. Use two-factor authentication and avoid using the admin account for daily use—create separate accounts with limited access.
Set up proper backups. Snapshots, external drives, and cloud backups give you options if your data is ever locked or lost. Also, turn off unused services like FTP or SSH, install antivirus tools, and keep an eye on system logs.
These steps aren’t complicated, but they make a big difference. Taking a little time now can save you from losing important data later.
Ask ChatGPT
The UGREEN DH2300 and DH4300 NAS models are solid options for home users who need reliable storage. They run quietly, use low power, and come with useful features like AI photo sorting and a clean web interface. The DH4300 has 4 bays and supports RAID 5/6, while the DH2300 offers 2 bays with RAID 0/1.
Both models include 8GB of fixed RAM and 2.5GbE networking. You also get USB 3.2 ports and HDMI output for media playback. However, there’s no support for NVMe drives, PCIe expansion, or RAM upgrades.
These systems aren’t built for heavy tasks like Plex transcoding or running virtual machines. But for everyday use—like backups, file sharing, and photo management—they’re a good fit, especially at discounted prices.
If you don’t need high-end performance or future upgrades, the DH4300 and DH2300 are practical choices that get the job done.
The right NAS depends on your family’s specific needs—whether it’s for backing up devices, organizing photos and videos, or streaming content to a TV. In 2025, models like the Synology DS224+ and QNAP TS-464 offer a good balance of reliability, features, and performance.
For those who prefer an easy setup, the WD My Cloud EX2 Ultra is a straightforward option. Families looking for more storage at a lower cost can consider the Asustor Drivestor 4 Pro. The UGREEN NASync is a newer option with strong hardware and user-friendly tools.
All of these devices help keep your data organized, safe, and accessible—from backups to family photos to home media collections.
Agree with the others ..get a pro to do a quick diagnostic. They’ll tell you if it’s a simple fix or if the data’s toast. Definitely don’t smash it or keep trying random stuff; you only get so many chances with the storage chip.
One more thing.. if the phone had a passcode, your data’s still encrypted. That’s actually good news: even if someone else got hold of the phone, they can’t read your stuff. Labs just need to get the phone working enough to decrypt using your passcode.
If Windows isn’t saving dump files after a BSOD, do this:
Make sure the folder C:\Windows\Minidump exists. If not, create it.
Go to System Properties > Startup and Recovery. Set “Write debugging information” to Small memory dump (256 KB) and make sure the path is C:\Windows\Minidump.
Check that the page file is enabled on the C: drive. Windows needs it to write dump files.
Open Command Prompt as admin and run:
wevtutil sl System /e:true
This makes sure system logging is enabled.
If you use any system cleaner apps, turn them off. They might be deleting the dump files.
Restart and check again after a crash.
I’d skip the DIY experiments. More tinkering = higher chance of frying the storage chip. Good labs do “no data, no fee,” so at least you won’t be charged if it’s truly gone.
For reference, a basic power circuit fix can be under $200; full chip-off recovery can hit $700+.”
If your Windows 11 PC is stuck in a CHKDSK loop, boot into Recovery Mode and open Command Prompt. Run chkntfs /x C: to stop CHKDSK from running at startup.
Next, use a bootable USB drive to back up your important files to another drive. Then, in Command Prompt, run chkdsk C: /f /r to check the disk for errors. If the scan hangs or fails, your drive may be failing.
You can also stop automatic repair by running bcdedit /set {default} recoveryenabled No. Replace the drive if the issue continues after backup.
Try these fixes –
1. Reset the app:
Open PowerShell as Administrator
Run:
Get-AppxPackage Microsoft.SecHealthUI -AllUsers | Reset-AppxPackage
2. Delete the broken app files:
Go to:
C:\Program Files\WindowsApps\
Find and delete folders starting with Microsoft.SecHealthUI
You may need to take ownership first
3. Re-register all apps:
In PowerShell (Admin), run:
Get-AppxPackage -AllUsers | Foreach {Add-AppxPackage -DisableDevelopmentMode -Register “$($_.InstallLocation)\AppXManifest.xml”}
4. If it still doesn’t work, do a repair install using Windows 11 ISO. It keeps your files and apps.
Try this:
1. Set an admin password in BIOS → reboot → Secure Boot should unlock.
2. Turn off CSM in the Boot tab.
3. Make sure BIOS is in UEFI mode and your drive is GPT.
If it still doesn’t work, update your BIOS.
Hi all,
I’m in the middle of replacing a failing hard drive and could use some advice.
Windows has been throwing up errors related to one of my older HDDs, so I’ve started backing up data in preparation for a swap. The issue is — I have two drives that are the exact same make and model installed in my system. They even show nearly identical names and serials in Disk Management, which is making it really difficult to figure out which physical drive is actually failing.
Is there any reliable method or tool that can help me link what I see in Windows (like “Disk 1” or “Disk 2”) to the actual drive installed in the case — without having to randomly unplug drives to test?
Would really appreciate any guidance before I start pulling cables and possibly removing the wrong drive. Thanks!