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If you’re looking for software to access and recover data from LTO tapes in RAW mode, there are a few options, though it’s important to note that tape recovery is very different from disk recovery. LTO tapes use sequential block structures and often depend on the backup application (NetBackup, TSM, Arcserve, etc.) that originally wrote the data. Still, there are tools that can bypass the backup layer and access the tape blocks directly.

Stellar Data Recovery for Tape – This tool can create an image of an LTO tape at the block level, even if the backup catalog is missing or the tape is partially damaged. It’s often used in recovery labs when backup software fails to read.

ddrescue / mt with Linux – While not tape-specific, GNU ddrescue combined with the mt (magnetic tape) utility can sometimes be used to dump raw tape data, skipping over bad blocks. This requires manual handling and deep tape knowledge.

LTFS Utilities – If the tape was formatted in LTFS (Linear Tape File System), utilities from IBM, HP, and Quantum can allow raw access to file contents without the original backup software. However, if the tape was written with backup software, LTFS tools won’t help.

Open Source Tools – Tools like Amanda and Bacula are backup/recovery systems that can sometimes interpret raw tape structures if you know the format used.
If you want something ready to use for individual recovery cases, Stellar Tape Recovery is probably the most practical option available to end users.

Yes, data on an LTO tape can be erased in different ways depending on the requirement. A short erase only clears the tape’s index and marks it as empty, but the data remains until overwritten. A full erase overwrites the entire tape, removing all existing data, though the process takes longer. Writing new backups can also overwrite and remove old data. For situations where complete and permanent removal is needed, degaussing is the most secure option, but it also renders the tape unusable.

Backing up a Synology NAS to LTO tape requires using a dedicated backup server, since Synology DSM does not directly support tape drives. The NAS data is shared with the backup server over SMB, NFS, rsync, or iSCSI, and then written to tape using backup software such as Veeam, Archiware, Retrospect, Bacula, or Amanda. This setup makes it possible to run scheduled full or incremental backups, maintain tape rotation, and keep a proper catalog of archived data. Although it adds an extra step compared to disk-based backups, pairing Synology storage with LTO tape offers a reliable and cost-effective way to archive and protect large volumes of data for long-term use.

LTO tape remains one of the most reliable and cost-effective options for long-term data archiving. The latest generation, LTO-10, offers up to 30TB of native capacity, with future versions projected to handle hundreds of terabytes per cartridge. It provides a very low cost per terabyte, a lifespan of 30 years or more when stored properly, and strong protection against ransomware due to its offline nature. These qualities make it well suited for organizations that need to store large volumes of data securely for long periods.

Cloud and disk storage have their own advantages, particularly for quick access, global scalability, and advanced search features. However, they often carry higher long-term costs and less inherent security compared to tape. LTO requires more effort in terms of handling and maintaining hardware, but it offers greater durability and lower overall costs for seldom-accessed archives.

For businesses, media companies, and institutions that must preserve critical archives, LTO continues to be the most practical solution in 2025. Cloud services are a better choice when frequent access and collaboration are priorities, while a combination of both can provide a balance between cost, security, and accessibility.

Recovering data from an LTO-7 tape with bad blocks is difficult because tape drives usually stop when they hit unreadable sections. You can try using ddrescue on /dev/nst0, but success depends on the drive firmware, which may not allow skipping bad blocks. A practical method is to use mt commands (fsf, bsf, eom) to move past the error and reattempt reads with dd in smaller block sizes to recover as much data as possible around the damaged section. Commercial tools such as Stellar or Ontrack are built for this purpose and often handle bad spots more effectively. The recovery process also depends on how the tape was originally written—whether LTFS, tar, or backup software like NetBackup—since this affects how usable the recovered data will be. If the tape consistently fails at the same point even on different drives, and the data is important, professional tape recovery services are the most reliable option.

If the JPEG file is corrupted and not opening on your Android device, you might want to look into online photo repair tools—some services, like Stellar’s online photo repair, can be accessed through a mobile browser and are designed to fix damaged image files without needing a full desktop setup. It could be worth a try if other apps aren’t working.

Sounds like a frustrating issue! A few things could be happening here:
– Corrupted Files: Sometimes, files get corrupted when saving or transferring. If that’s the case, there’s not much you can do unless you’ve got a backup of the photos somewhere (Google Photos, iCloud, etc.).
– Storage Problems: If your phone is running low on storage, it might affect how photos save or open. Try clearing up some space and see if that makes a difference.
– Camera Settings: If you were taking pics in low-light or with a lower resolution setting, they might end up blurry. Or, if the lens is dirty, that can mess with the focus too.
– Hardware Problems: In the worst-case scenario, your camera might have a hardware issue. If none of the above works, it might be worth checking with a repair shop.

Well, clearly your SD card is acting up. First, reboot your device, because that always helps, right? Then, try using a different reader or port, just in case it’s not actually the card’s fault. If that fails, format it—if you even know how. If it’s still dead, maybe it’s time to admit it’s gone.

Corrupted files are basically the new normal. But seriously, try recovery software like Recuva or Stellar, those are your best bet. If that fails, well, guess it’s time to treat yourself to a shiny new SD card, because who doesn’t love spending more money?

UHS-I SD cards are only capable of V10 & V30 speeds, while UHS-II SD cards can perform at V60 and V90 speeds.

A simple fix is to boot into Safe Mode and run System File Checker: open Command Prompt as admin and type sfc /scannow to repair corrupted files. You can also use DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth to fix deeper Windows issues.

Another step is to check for pending Windows updates or uninstall recently installed updates that might be causing the problem. If needed, creating a new user profile can help, as a corrupted profile sometimes triggers this message. Finally, make sure your system drive has enough free space and no disk errors—running chkdsk /f /r can help.

Bro, get Stellar Photo Recovery software for deleted photos. Don’t think of anything else.

If your PC is stuck on the BIOS screen, it usually means there’s a hardware issue or a problem with the boot configuration. First, check all connections—make sure your hard drive, RAM, and cables are properly seated. You can also try removing and reinserting the RAM or testing with one stick at a time.

Next, reset BIOS to default settings by selecting “Load Setup Defaults” or removing the CMOS battery for a few minutes. Check if your boot order points to the correct drive with Windows installed. If the problem persists, disconnect extra peripherals (USB drives, external devices) and try booting again.

In some cases, a failing hard drive or corrupted Windows installation may be the cause, so you might need to repair Windows using a bootable USB or replace faulty hardware.

Honestly, that’s like a beginner-level issue. But whatever, I guess I’ll help you out. First off, if you haven’t already tried the basics like disabling fast startup or resetting the USB controllers in Device Manager, then you might just be missing something obvious. Also, maybe you should check if your USB ports are actually working on other devices

To fix it, first restart your PC and let Windows try updating again. If the problem continues, run Windows Update Troubleshooter (Settings → Update & Security → Troubleshoot → Windows Update). You can also clear the SoftwareDistribution folder by stopping the Windows Update service and deleting its contents; this removes stuck update files.

Another tip is to make sure your Windows is fully updated and your drivers are current, as outdated drivers can slow down updates. Usually, the high CPU usage goes down once updates finish installing.

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