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Backing what you said, just remember @Nina, do not save or download anything new on the phone until recovery is attempted, or else you risk overwriting data. And yeah, boot loop issues like this often come from shady APKs.
If that doesn’t work, try not to panic. Factory reset is a last resort, but even if you go that route, not all is lost. I had to reset mine recently due to a similar glitch, and later recovered most of my documents using an Android data recovery software. You’ll need a PC and a USB cable, but the tool actually helped me get back stuff I thought I’d never see again.
If your external hard drive is corrupted, stop using it right away to avoid losing more data. First, try plugging it into a different USB port, using another cable, or testing it on another computer to check if the issue is with the connection. Open Disk Management to see if the drive is listed—sometimes it may not have a drive letter or might show as RAW.
Don’t format the drive, even if asked. You can try fixing it by opening Command Prompt and typing chkdsk X: /f (replace X with your drive letter). Avoid using /r unless your data is backed up. If the drive still doesn’t open, use free data recovery software to scan and recover your files without making changes to the drive. Once your files are recovered, save them on another working drive and stop using the damaged one.
Yup happened to me. I used one of those android data recovery software Jace mentioned. Worked okay. Didn’t get everything back but def got the main stuff. (Just make sure USB debugging is on)
@JaceElric totally second the OTG cable thing. Did that once with my LG phone that had a dead touchscreen. Took a couple tries to get it right, but managed to transfer my gallery to the laptop.
Also, @Diwo.. check your Google Photos as it automatically backs stuff up even if you don’t realize it sometimes.
Hi all,
I’ve been using a Canon EOS R10 with a Lexar 128GB SDXC UHS-II card to shoot in RAW (CR3 format). Everything was working fine until recently. After an outdoor shoot, I tried transferring the files to my Windows 11 laptop, and about 50 of the 300 images showed up as corrupt—file icons are blank, and they won’t open in Lightroom, Photoshop, or even Canon’s Digital Photo Professional.
These specific files show errors like “unsupported format” or “file header missing.” I didn’t get any warnings on the camera while shooting, and I always safely eject the card.
I’ve tried Stellar, PhotoRec, and ExifTool, but no luck in fixing or even previewing those corrupted RAW files.
Has anyone faced a similar issue in 2025 with CR3 files or the R10? Any proven solutions out there for recovering or repairing partially corrupted RAW files?
Thanks a ton!
How can I recover data from a corrupted external hard drive without losing any files?
How can I repair corrupted files on my computer without using paid software?
I made a mistake and deleted all my folders directly from the OneDrive web interface, and then emptied the recycle bin—before unlinking my account. Unfortunately, their feedback form isn’t working, and I haven’t been able to reach support.
Is there any chance of recovering those folders now, or are they permanently lost? Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi everyone,
I recently lost some video files while transferring data from my SD card to an external hard drive. I’m not exactly sure what went wrong, but the videos are now missing, and I’m hoping to recover them.
I’m using a Mac and don’t mind paying for a reliable tool—as long as it’s effective and has a good success rate for recovering deleted video files. If anyone has experience with a trustworthy data recovery software for macOS, I’d really appreciate your suggestions.
Thanks in advance!
Yes, you can try stopping the CHKDSK loop without risking your files.
Boot from a Windows installation USB > select Repair your computer > open Command Prompt and run:
chkntfs /x C:
This stops CHKDSK from auto-running on the C drive.
Try booting into Safe Mode (press F8 or Shift + F8 during startup). If it works, back up your data right away.
If Safe Mode doesn’t load, use a bootable USB or recovery media to access your drive and copy important files to an external drive.
Avoid force shutdowns or letting CHKDSK run repeatedly, as it can cause further damage.
Yes, definitely check Disk Management first (right-click on Start > Disk Management). If you see the D drive there but it doesn’t have a letter, just right-click and choose “Change Drive Letter and Paths” to assign one.
If it shows as unallocated, the partition might’ve been deleted—don’t create a new one yet, try running data recovery software to scan and recover the data first. Also check Device Manager in case there’s a driver issue. Your data should still be safe as long as the drive hasn’t been formatted or overwritten.
A quick fix that often helps in such cases is enabling auto-mount. Sometimes Windows disables it after updates, causing drives to disappear. Try this:
Open Command Prompt as Administrator
Type the following commands one by one:
diskpart
automount enable
exit
Restart your PC.
If the D drive still doesn’t show up, avoid formatting. Use any windows data recovery software to scan for lost partitions or recover data safely before making changes.
Yes, I faced similar problems after the KB5035853 update — system lag and a couple of random crashes. Uninstalling the update helped stabilize things temporarily. I’d also recommend running sfc /scannow and DISM commands as Mira mentioned. Additionally, check for any recent driver updates, especially for graphics and chipset, as they might conflict with the update. If problems continue, consider using System Restore or waiting for a patch in the next cumulative update. Pausing updates for now is a smart move.
FYI if you’re using Samsung Messages (not Google’s), deleted texts go into a recycle bin for 30 days. You can straight-up restore them from there—no software needed.
Go to Messages > 3 dots > Recycle bin > long press + restore. Super easy.