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There’s a good chance your files can be recovered since you haven’t used the drive. Try a photo recovery tool like Stellar or Photorec; they’re pretty user-friendly. Just don’t save anything new to that drive. If that doesn’t work, a data recovery service can still help.
You might love the Sony A7C III or Nikon Z6 II—both are compact, great for travel, and versatile enough for landscapes, portraits, and auroras. Add a tripod and you’re set!
A 24-70mm f/4 lens is useful for everyday use, while a wide-angle lens like a 16-35mm is perfect for landscapes and night skies.
Recuva is not a bad tool.
When you recover deleted photos using Recuva, sometimes the files don’t open because parts of the data were already overwritten or the recovery was incomplete. This can leave the photos corrupted, which is why they won’t open now.
You can try a photo repair tool. Some recommendations are: Stellar Repair for Photo, Picture Doctor, and Repairit.
Dude Recuva!! Seriously?
Why?
Everyone know that sucks! That’s the reason its free. Free always sucks.
Don’t use Recuva. I also had the same issue and my photos became corrupt. I am literally crying RN.
90% of the recovered photos are corrupt.
I was trying to clear some of my folder. But I accidentally I deleted some important folder from my D drive. I was able to recover the photos from Recuva, mostly my family photos. But now many of them are not opening.
Does anyone knows what is the reason? I want those photos very urgent.
Hey Esther,
I’ve seen this issue a lot, and I know how frustrating it can get—especially when you’ve already tried all the standard steps. Since DISM, SFC, and even Group Policy tweaks didn’t help, here are a few deeper-level suggestions that have worked for others in similar cases:
Check for Pending Updates or Reboots: Sometimes Windows has a pending restart or stuck update in the background. Try running this in Command Prompt (Admin):
shutdown /r /t 0
Clear the C:\Windows\SoftwareDistribution folder again after stopping the update services. Even if you’ve done this before, do it manually:
net stop wuauserv
net stop bits
rename C:\Windows\SoftwareDistribution SoftwareDistribution.old
net start wuauserv
net start bits
Use Windows 10 Update Assistant or Media Creation Tool: If the in-place updates are failing, downloading the Windows 10 Update Assistant often bypasses the stuck process.
Check the setupact.log and setuperr.log files inside C:\$WINDOWS.~BT\Sources\Panther\ — these logs usually point out exactly where and why the update is failing.
Create a New Local Admin User and try updating from there. Corrupted user profiles can sometimes interfere with update permissions.
Let me know the exact error code you’re seeing—some of them have very targeted fixes.
Always happy to help troubleshoot deeper if you can share more logs or error details.
Every time I turn on my PC, it throws an error before loading Windows. I can’t even reach the desktop or any recovery options. Most fixes online assume you can log in or access advanced settings, but I can’t do either. Has anyone dealt with this kind of issue and found a workaround? Really need help getting past this screen.
Hey everyone,
I’ve been stuck with a persistent issue where my Windows 10 refuses to install updates. Every time I try, it either gets stuck during installation or throws an error code that leads nowhere. I’ve already tried running the update troubleshooter, resetting the Windows Update components, using DISM and SFC, and even tweaking Group Policy settings—nothing seems to work.
At this point, I’m not sure what else to try. If anyone has managed to fix this kind of issue or has any suggestions that actually worked for them, I’d really appreciate the help.
Hey Frisky,
Yeah, I’ve run into this before — having identical drives can be a real headache.
Download CrystalDiskInfo — it’s free and shows each drive’s health along with full serial numbers. You can match that with the physical label on the drives without unplugging anything.
Also, in Device Manager > Disk Drives, right-click each one, go to Properties > Details > Physical Device Object name. That can help you trace which is which.
If you’re comfortable with PowerShell, this command helps too:
Get-PhysicalDisk | Select FriendlyName, SerialNumber, HealthStatus
Should help you figure out the failing one without pulling random cables.
Hey, good that you’ve got 2FA on — that definitely saved you here. Even though the login was blocked, it’s still a smart move to change your password right away, just in case your credentials were leaked somewhere.
Also, it doesn’t always mean your device is compromised — sometimes, attackers just try credential stuffing using leaked info from data breaches. But to be safe:
Run a full scan with Windows Defender or something like Malwarebytes.
Check for strange startup items or unknown apps in Task Manager.
Visit haveibeenpwned.com to see if your email has been in any breaches.
If you’re using the same password elsewhere, change those too.
Better safe than sorry, and sounds like you already have a good head start on security.
Hi Diwo,
I see @Daxi, has already pointed out some solid initial checks — especially around BIOS settings, USB drivers, and possible power-related issues. Those are indeed the right starting points.
To build on that:
Prioritize checking the PSU if you’re seeing system-level instability (like restarts or freezing). If the PSU is aging or borderline for your system’s power needs, USB device connections can tip it over.
Disconnect front panel USB headers temporarily. A short or grounding issue from a front port can crash the system even if the rear ports seem fine.
Look into Event Viewer under “System” logs for any Kernel-Power or USB-related errors at the exact time of the crash — this will help confirm whether it’s driver-level or hardware-triggered.
If you’re unsure about testing hardware, boot into a Linux live environment. If the system behaves the same there, that’s a clear hardware confirmation.
You’ve already ruled out malware for the most part, but if you want full peace of mind, run a bootable antivirus scanner like ESET SysRescue.
Let us know the PSU model and if anything stands out in the Event Logs — that’ll help us guide you further.
Hey Diwo, from what you’ve described, I’ve seen similar issues before—usually it’s either a power delivery problem or a faulty USB port. I’d suggest checking your PSU or motherboard for any signs of failure. Try reinstalling the USB controller drivers manually and physically inspect the ports too, especially the front ones.
Also, check Event Viewer for any critical or USB-related errors. For now, unplug all non-essential USB devices and test ports one by one with just the keyboard. Malware could be a factor, but this seems more like a hardware thing. Share your Event Viewer logs and PSU details—I’ll help you dig deeper.
Fortunately yes, there is a chance to play it, you can use a video repair software. It will try to rebuild the file which can be played.