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Don’t use that card anymore — seriously. any write action can overwrite what’s left. clone the whole card to an image file first (dd or a Windows tool) and work on the copy. chkdsk can sometimes make things worse. If you want, upload one small sample so people can see what type of corruption it is.
I went out to shoot at a small gallery opening last month with my Canon point and shoot. Most of the shots are fine, but about 30 pics on the SD card are messed up — some show large grey bands, others open as totally black or with big pixel blocks. The card is a 16GB sandisk, been using it for a couple years. I didn’t drop the camera or anything, but I did accidentally eject the card once while copying files to my laptop (win11). I tried chkdsk and Windows Photo Viewer, and a free ‘repair’ website that only gave me previews with huge watermarks. I’m a freelancer on a tight budget, so I can’t just throw cash at every paid tool.
What should I try next? Is this likely recoverable, or is the card toast? I can attach sample images if that helps. Any step-by-step advice appreciated — I don’t want to make things worse.
Agreed. If budget allowed, I’d probably use both — Hasselblad for stills, Nikon for video. Best of both worlds.
True, if video was my main focus, I’d consider Nikon. But for high-end client photos, Hasselblad is still king.
Exactly — Hasselblad equals pure artistry, Nikon equals pure utility. It comes down to priorities: chasing perfection in images or maximizing overall performance.
Honestly, I see both sides. Hasselblad is perfect for stills, Nikon is better for video. If you want one camera for both, Nikon’s versatility makes it the safer choice.
I get that, but for anyone serious about video, Nikon ZR is on another level. 6K video, RED codec, clean audio — it’s a filmmaker’s dream. Performance over perfection in motion.
I have to go with Hasselblad. The color depth and image quality are unmatched. For portraits and fashion shoots, nothing else comes close. Pure artistry.
Both cameras are making waves right now. Though it is a tough choice. Hasselblad’s photo quality is insane, but Nikon’s video specs are extremely tempting. What’s everyone’s take? If you’re shooting both photos and videos, which one would you pick?
Start by booting into Safe Mode (hold Shift + Restart from the login screen → Troubleshoot → Advanced → Startup Settings → Safe Mode). Once there, run sfc /scannow in an admin Command Prompt to check for corrupt files, then DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth to repair the Windows image. If Safe Mode won’t load, use a Windows 11 installation USB to access the recovery environment and run the same commands from Command Prompt. For data recovery, you can attach the drive to another PC or use a Linux live USB to copy important files before attempting repairs. If system files are heavily damaged, an in-place upgrade/repair install from the USB is often the safest fix without wiping your data.
First, check your BIOS: enter it (usually F2/Delete on boot) and make sure your main drive is set as the first boot device—don’t mess with other settings. If that’s fine, create a Windows 11 USB installer on another PC, boot from it, and use Repair your computer → Troubleshoot → Advanced options. From there, run Startup Repair, then open Command Prompt and do sfc /scannow and chkdsk /r on your main drive. If Windows still won’t boot, rebuild the BCD with bootrec /rebuildbcd.
To recover files safely, you can boot from the USB and copy them to an external drive via Command Prompt or a Linux live USB. If all else fails, System Restore or a clean reinstall will work, but back up everything first. For prevention, keep your drives healthy, avoid sudden shutdowns, and occasionally check system integrity with sfc and chkdsk.
First, try booting into Safe Mode (hold Shift while clicking Restart → Troubleshoot → Advanced Options → Startup Settings → Safe Mode). Once in Safe Mode, run sfc /scannow and DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth in Command Prompt to fix corrupted files. If that doesn’t help, check for recent driver updates or Windows updates that might be causing the crash and roll them back. Also, unplug any new hardware, as faulty peripherals can trigger startup BSODs. If all else fails, a System Restore to a point before the issue started usually resolves it without wiping your data.
Hey! The Cldflt.sys BSOD usually points to issues with the iCloud driver on Windows 11. It can happen if iCloud isn’t updated, conflicts with other software, or has corrupted files. First, make sure iCloud is fully updated to the latest version. If it already is, try uninstalling iCloud, rebooting, and then reinstalling it cleanly. Also, run a quick sfc /scannow in Command Prompt to check for corrupted system files. If the BSOD keeps happening even after that, check for recent Windows updates or driver conflicts, especially storage and network drivers, as they can interact with Cldflt.sys. That usually resolves it in 90% of cases.
Hi, my Windows PC keeps crashing after boot with a 0xc0000420 blue screen. Sometimes apps won’t load, and the system becomes unresponsive. I’ve heard it could be due to corrupt system files, a damaged Windows image, or conflicts with a second OS.
What’s the best way to fix this? Any tips for safe mode, SFC/DISM scans, or recovering data if the PC won’t boot?
Thanks!
Agree with Jace. also: try opening the files in irfanview or gimp — sometimes they can read images other viewers choke on. but if those show nothing, you’re probably dealing with file-structure corruption from that ejection.