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I’m thinking of factory resetting my MacBook soon—maybe to give it a fresh start or pass it on to someone else. But before I do that, I want to make sure none of my personal files get lost or fall into the wrong hands. I’ve got important documents, photos, and a few things I’d really rather not lose. I’ve heard about backing up with Time Machine or iCloud, but I’m not sure what steps I should take to properly protect everything.

Can you help me out with this? How can I safely protect my personal files when factory resetting a MacBook?

Hello there,
I’m getting the error “The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error” when trying to access my external drive on Windows 11. The drive is still detected by the system, and I haven’t lost any data yet, but I can’t open or copy files from it.
I’ve tried basic steps like changing the USB port, restarting the system, and updating drivers, but the issue persists.
Has anyone dealt with this error before it led to data loss? Any safe troubleshooting steps I can follow to prevent it from getting worse?

Thanks in advance!

I have recently recovered a deleted video from recycle bin but when I played the video it showed a video corruption message. Please help to fix this issue.

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Hey so maybe a dumb question but I’m kinda stuck
I had this PDF in my Downloads folder. 100% sure I saw it there
but now it’s just gone???
checked Trash, not there either
someone told me mac might hide some files by default??
I honestly didn’t even know that was a thing
so… how do I see hidden files on macos?
not super techy or anything so please keep it simple 😅
thanks in advance 🙏

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Man, that’s rough. I’ve been there – dropped mine once and thought it was game over. There’s still a shot you can get your stuff back though, depends on how bad the damage is.
First off, if the drive’s making weird clicking or buzzing sounds, don’t keep turning it on. That can make things worse. Mine did that and I learned the hard way.
If your computer still recognizes the drive (even if files don’t show), try using a recovery tool. I used Stellar when mine acted up – it actually found a bunch of stuff I thought was gone. There’s also Recuva, EaseUS, etc.
If the drive isn’t showing up at all or sounds bad, probably best to stop messing with it and take it to a pro. Physical damage needs proper recovery tools – not really a DIY thing at that point.
Hope it’s not too bad.

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I’m sorry to hear about your situation — losing precious photos can be distressing. Since you’re using Windows 11 and used CleanMyPC, it’s possible that the software deleted the images permanently or moved them to the Recycle Bin.
First, check your Recycle Bin to see if the photos remain; if so, you can easily restore them. If they’re not there, and if you had File History or any backup enabled on your system, you might be able to restore the images from a previous backup.
If no backup is available, you can use reliable photo recovery software such as Stellar Photo Recovery or any other trusted tool. Make sure you install the software on a different drive to avoid overwriting the deleted data, and scan the drive where the “My Photos” folder was located.
Let me know if you need help with any of these steps — we’re here to support you.

  • This reply was modified 16 hours, 52 minutes ago by Arin Vale.
  • This reply was modified 16 hours, 10 minutes ago by mark willium.
  • This reply was modified 16 hours, 9 minutes ago by mark willium.
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It is possible to run multiple instances of wdckit.exe in separate Command Prompt windows, each targeting a different WD SATA 512e non-RAID hard drive. The Windows 10 Pro 64-bit operating system and Intel SATA chipset support concurrent access to multiple drives, so the system itself won’t prevent this. However, whether wdckit.exe is designed to handle simultaneous execution safely is uncertain.

The tool performs low-level operations like formatting and changing block size from 512-byte to 4096-byte sectors, which typically require exclusive access to each drive. If more than one instance tries to access hardware resources at the same time, it may cause conflicts, failures, or even data loss. Without official documentation confirming that wdckit.exe supports concurrent operations, it’s better to assume it does not.

To avoid problems, run one instance at a time. If you want to streamline the process, use a batch script to automate the commands in sequence. This approach ensures each drive is processed safely without risking interference from another active session.

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If you’ve uninstalled the USB Backups app on your NAS, you can reinstall it based on the brand you’re using.

For Synology NAS, open Package Center in DSM and search for “USB Copy”. Install the app, then open it from the main menu to set up NAS-to-USB backup tasks.

For QNAP NAS, go to App Center and search for “Hybrid Backup Sync” or “USB One Touch Copy”, depending on your NAS model. Install the app and configure your backup jobs from the app interface or through the one-touch copy button if available.

For WD My Cloud NAS, there is no built-in app store. If the USB backup feature was removed, a system-only factory reset may restore it. Otherwise, use WD Backup software or third-party tools like rsync or GoodSync to handle backups.

If you’re using a different NAS brand, include the model for specific steps.

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This can be resolved, i have seen many users facing this same issue.
Go to System Settings > Accessibility > Keyboard and adjust the Key Repeat and Delay Until Repeat sliders. This might help reduce double-typing. Also, double-check that Slow Keys is turned off—it’s in the same section and can sometimes mess with your typing. Next, make sure your Mac is running the latest version of macOS by going to System Settings > General > Software Update.

It’s also a good idea to give your keyboard a gentle clean with compressed air. Just tilt your MacBook at about a 75° angle and spray along the keys to clear out any dust.

Also, As a quick fix, you can try using an external keyboard to keep working without getting frustrated. If all else fails, it might be time to visit a service center, as it could be a hardware issue that needs professional attention.

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Before factory resetting your MacBook, it’s crucial to protect your personal files to avoid losing important data or exposing private information. Start by creating a full backup of your system. The best method is using Time Machine—simply connect an external hard drive and access System Preferences > Time Machine to back up your data. You can also enable iCloud syncing via System Preferences > Apple ID > iCloud to store your documents, photos, and other files online. For extra peace of mind, manually copy essential files to a USB drive or cloud services like Google Drive, Dropbox, or OneDrive.

Next, export any important data that might not be included in a standard backup. This includes key emails from the Mail app, Safari bookmarks (via File > Export Bookmarks), and saved passwords—make sure iCloud Keychain is enabled, or export passwords from your password manager. Before wiping your Mac, it’s also important to deauthorize your accounts. Sign out of your Apple ID under System Preferences > Apple ID > Sign Out, and deauthorize iTunes or the Music app through Account > Authorizations > Deauthorize This Computer.

When you’re ready to erase your Mac, boot into macOS Recovery Mode by restarting and holding Command + R. Use Disk Utility to securely erase the internal drive, choosing a secure erase option (like a 3-pass erase) to make sure your data can’t be recovered. Finally, double-check your backups by opening a few files to ensure everything is intact and accessible.

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Hi,

This error means Windows can’t find the boot partition after changes to your system. To fix it, boot from a Windows USB or DVD and open Command Prompt. Run these commands one by one:

bootrec /fixmbr
bootrec /fixboot
bootrec /rebuildbcd

If that doesn’t help, use these steps to assign a letter to the EFI partition:

Type diskpart

Type list volume and find the small FAT32 partition (EFI)

Type select volume # (replace # with the EFI number)

Type assign letter=Z

Type exit

Then run:
bootrec /fixboot
ren BCD BCD.bak
bcdboot C:\Windows /s Z: /f ALL

Then, Restart your PC. I am also attaching the blog link for your reference.

How to Fix the “Requested System Device Cannot Be Found” Error?

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Hi,
Try these fixes.

1.Update all drivers from the device maker’s site

2. Run these commands in Command Prompt as admin:
sfc /scannow
DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth

3. Check for newer updates and install them

4. If needed, uninstall the April update

5. Try turning off antivirus or VPN to see if it helps

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Here’s a simple fix for the intelppm.sys Blue Screen error:

1. Repair system files:

Open Command Prompt as admin.

Run these commands one by one:
DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth
sfc /scannow

Restart your PC.

2. Update drivers:

Open Device Manager.

Update Intel and other drivers.

3. Remove recent Windows updates:

Go to Settings > Update & Security > Uninstall updates.

Remove the latest updates if the problem started after updating.

4. Scan for malware:

Use Windows Defender Offline Scan.

5. Disable intelppm.sys driver (only if needed):

Open Registry Editor (regedit).

Go to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\intelppm.

Change the Start value to 4.

Restart your PC.

That’s it. Let me know if you need help!

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